Dear friends and family:

We stopped in Arizona to see Saguaro NP, Casa Grande NM and the Biosphere, all of which were fascinating. We got to meet up with our friend Steve for a tour of Saguaro. I won't include any pictures, but of course we have so many! We'll certainly show any or all to you if you want to see them.

Our next stops included Carlsbad Cavern NP. The second picture here is one of the formations in a cave we toured on a ranger-led flashlight hike. It was an interesting tour because there was no artificial lighting in the cave, and the formations were really spectacular. This figure has many names - La Muerte, the Grim Reaper, or the Klansman (the ranger apologized for the politically incorrect name but he shared it anyway). The caves of Carlsbad Caverns were formed about 10 million years ago. These are perhaps the best caves we've ever been in and definitely recommend them. If you can get there between March and October the Mexican bats are there in the thousands and put on a show every evening as they fly in and out of the cave. We were there too late so all we got to see and smell was the bat guano (poop), not quite as exciting. The first picture is of Ruth looking at a prehistoric mound of bat guano. They used to mine that stuff to fertilize the orange trees in California - anyone need a job? Can you imagine mining bat guano 10 hours a day? Not for the faint of stomach.

After a brief stop in Guadalupe Mountains NP, where the wind was bitterly cold (I think this was when all you northerners were getting colder than normal temps), we headed to Big Bend NP in southern Texas. I mean southern - catch the last photo of the Rio Grande, the left canyon wall is in Mexico. You used to be able to cross into Mexico from the park, but no more, the Border Patrol has taken care of that. In fact, we had at least 4 road stops to be questioned by the Border Patrol as we traveled along route 90. I think they either have too much time, too much money or too many officers, maybe all of the above.

We loved Big Bend. We spent our first full day there hiking in the Chisos Mountains basin, a 12.5 mile loop. You see the picture of Brian looking out over the South Rim of the basin towards the Mexican border. At this point we're about 15 miles from the Rio Grande. We saw deer, javelinas, birds (the Mexican jay, the rufous sided tohee and some unidentified warblers) as well as a mother black bear with her three cubs. The picture shows one of the cubs checking us out. Notice the tree with the peeling bark - this is locally known as the "gringo tree" because it's bark turns red then peels, just like a gringo! We had beautiful weather and stayed only three nights, then ran out of time.

Perhaps our favorite stop in Southern California, after doing some hiking and camping at Joshua Tree National Park, was the Salton Sea, a 35 mile long body of water just to the south of Joshua Tree NP. The Salton Sea is a shallow sea about 200 feet below sea level, and because it has no outlet it is saltier than the ocean, and growing more salty all the time. The sea has come and gone several times over the last 1000 years, and in its current state it is host to many species of migrating birds. You can see the snow geese swirling in the air - they were a lovely sight. In addition to snow geese we saw black throated stilts, brown and white pelicans, gamble's quails, roadrunners, logger headed shrikes and many little diving ducks that we couldn't identify. But the sea is a fragile environment and its growing saltiness means that it may not sustain fish life for much longer. As it is, only the tilapia can reproduce in such salty water. Without fish the birds won't have food and will lose this stopover on the Pacific flyway. So the local government is putting tons of money into trying to preserve the lake. It seems like trying to fight nature, but we wish them the best.

Close to the lake we visited the mud pots you see in the last photos. This part of California is only a few miles from two major faults, so there is lots of geothermal activity. These mud pots are created by hot gasses escaping and oozing mud up to the suface. Some form little volcanos and others are more like the pots you see in Yellowstone. It was odd to run across this phenomenum in an abandoned field surrounded by geothermal energy plants, basically in the middle of nowhere. We were tipped off at the visitor center at Salton Sea that they existed.

We have been impressed with the variety of climates and natural features of California - from the redwood forests of the north coast to the deserts and mountains of the south. To add to the odd mix, agricultural fields, irrigated by the Colorado River, butt right up against the desert, creating a juxtaposition that most of us from the midwest would find jarring. We associate good crops with rain, but here, where it doesn't rain much at all, only irrigation makes the fields productive.

Indonesian Places

Hi Folks,

We experienced great contrasts in Indonesia. Below is a pictured of Jakarta, the capital. It is an unbelievably congested city. The day we arrived Utun picked us up at the airport and we drove through the city 20 miles to his home. It took 4 hours, thats right-5 miles per hour. City streets in Chicago at rush hour are like the German autobahn by comparison.

Next to the city picture is a photo of rice fields which are beautiful and all over the countryside. The picture of Brian is taken in Borobodur, a massive and impressive Buddhist temple built about 1300 years ago. On the island of Bali we saw many rather ornery monkeys. This one got someone's shoe, I had to hold on to my glasses to keep the monkeys from stealing them. Also from Bali are a picture of the sunset over the ocean taken near our hotel there and a photo of one of the two Balinese dances we saw.

Indonesia is huge, it is the fourth largest country in the world, and we only saw a small portion of it. As you can see from these photos it is a different world from the U.S. We are glad we went and really loved the people who were the friendliest people we have ever met in our travels. But we are also happy to be back to the world we are more familiar with.

Brian and Ruth

It's hard to summarize 16 days in Indonesia in a brief post, so we'll divide it into two: the people, and Indonesia, the place. All that with a caviat that we saw very little of Indonesia's many places and ethnic groups. We spent our time in the capital, Jakarta, in the cities of Bandung, Cilegon, Semurang, Bogor and Yogyakarta in West and Central Java (the same island that the capital is located on, and that has the majority of the people of Indonesia living on it), as well as the southern part of the resort island Bali. Java is about 95% Muslim and Bali is about 95% Hindu, and both linguistically and culturally they are very different from each other as well. The people we got to know were all Muslim. You see a picture of Utun and Brian in their hardhats. Utun is a site manager for a German chemical plant in Cilegon and he is the reason we visited Indonesia - he was Brian's AFS brother in 1973 - 4, 35 years ago! His family is the top photo, but missing is his eldest daughter who wasn't able to be there that night. We also met two of his sisters. Lilis is the mother of one of the boys in the third photo. The boys are all members of a pop-rock band, the Romance Band, which is having a modicum of success in Indonesia. His other sister, Inge is one of the teachers at a Muslim school, in the line-up of white-head coverings towards the top. We also met his father, Pahpi, sitting on the couch with us and his wife. We enjoyed meeting the extended family and getting to know life as it is lived by middle-class professional Indonesians.

Muslims in Indonesia are a very tolerant group, and they see their religious practice as one of many, which is a necessity for survival in a country that has so much diversity. They don't eat pork or duck, can't touch a dog's nose before prayer, don't drink or gamble, pray five times a day, etc. The women mostly cover their heads, but it is a choice for women in Indonesia, so particularly younger women are not inclined to follow the practice. Women and men both cover up, which means long sleeves, jackets, head coverings and long pants in 95 degree heat and high humidity. We noticed that in Bali, where the majority of people are Hindu, they wear shorts and cool summer blouses and have none of the lifestyle restrictions of the Muslims. In Java you find prayer rooms everywhere, in train stations, museums, parking garages (I'm not kidding) because of the requirement to pray 5 times a day. In Bali every house and restaurant has a temple for prayers and offerings, and little baskets of fruit, food and flowers are set out each morning to ask for blessings.

Being in Indonesia during the election was fun. Barack Obama spent 2 years of his youth attending school in Indonesia. I think his step-father was from Indonesia and he has a step-sister who still lives there. So he is practically Indonesian as far as people there are concerned. I think people there were as excited as us to see him become president!

Death Valley! Well, it was definitely warmer than Utah - about 95 degrees during the day and cooling to the mid 60's at night. Brian finally found a place warm enough for me to stop complaining about my cold hands and feet. We saw all kinds of wildlife there too - the kind that fly - stealth bombers - and the kind that crawl - collared lizards. Actually, we did see more birds and plenty of bats. With 1.5 inches of rain a year you wouldn't think there would be any bugs for the bats to eat, but we always seemed to have at least one fly buzzing around us, and all it took was opening a hummus container to get a swarm of gnats. Where do they hang out? We couldn't figure it out.

So this place is hot and dry. You can see the salt flats at 288 feet below sea level, and Brian is finally getting to golf - they call this the devil's golf course. The balls are mostly crystalized salt and other minerals but really sharp and nasty. But the place had a very stark kind of beauty and we did plenty of canyon hikes that showed the different kind of rocks in the valley. Our camping was pleasant with the exception of one very windy night when some warm air blew through and we were almost blown away tent and all.

Death Valley has a history of borax mining, but now it is a hotspot for European travel. We met at least 5 tour buses a day of folks speaking various languages. We kept trying to figure out how they convince Europeans that Death Valley is a destination vacation, except that I can imagine if you're from a place that doesn't get much sun you could really make up for that there. Anyway, it was a fun time to sit in front of the general store and people watch, which is what we did when the day got too hot for hiking. We enjoyed the place as a break from the cold and do recommend it, but no earlier than October and no later than April.

Dear friends and family,

We finished our tour of Utah with some hiking at Bryce Canyon while we camped at Kodachrome Basin State Park nearby. We thought Bryce was the most spectacular of all the parks with its amphitheatre of "hoodoos" that looked like people frozen in time, sort of like the stone statues of the Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe. In addition we enjoyed seeing the bristlecone pine trees that grow there. The bristlecone pines are known to live up to 4800 years - in the White Mountains of California there are some that are that old. In Bryce they have documented them to be up to 1700 years old. Our stay at Kodachrome Basin was beautiful - the campground was surrounded by canyon walls and the night sky was great for viewing the Milky Way, Jupiter, and later in the evening, the moon. But it was cold - one morning Brian poured water into our aluminum pan and it immediately froze. So after three days of rising with the freezing temps we packed up to head for warmer climes - Death Vally NP in California.

Hi Everyone,
After several days of beautiful weather and great camping in and around Canyonlands National Park it turned cold when we arived at Zion National Park. It was well below freezing and were happy to be in a hotel room when we met our friend Steve just outside the Park. We spent four days with Steve. He and I (Brian) took a one night backpacking trip and all three of us took several day hikes. The overnight backcountry trip we took was not the one I thought we might take. I had wanted to go through "The Narrows". It is a 16 mile hike downstream a river that runs through narrrow canyon walls. It is a fantastic hike but the water is 57 degrees and the air was around freezing in the morning. We decided a dry hike sounded better and it was terrific. Some time in warmer weather I hope to get back to "The Narrows." As the pictures show it is a beautiful place. It was wonderful to be with Steve and enjoy camping with him again. Our families have camped together since our children were little and we have always had a great time together. We hope to catch Steve again after we return from Indonesia. Zion is a very popular park. 2.4 million visitors come each year and Spring and Fall are the most popular times. They manage the crowds well by using a shuttle system rather than allowing cars through the park. In this way it is similar to Denali. One difference is that the buses in Denali are old school buses while in Zion the buses are what you would expect in a city bus system.

Thanks for your interest in our trip - we love keeping in touch! Brian and Ruth

Dear Friends and Family,

Canyonlands National Park In Utah was the setting for a really great two night backpacking trip Brian and I took last week. We experienced both the big (the sweeping views of the canyons and rock faces) and the small (the abundant scurrying lizards and the cryptobiotic soils that build the sand into usable soil for plants). We were also very impressed at how smart ravens are. We had left our packs for about 15 minutes to pump water from a small pool and upon our return saw a raven sitting on top of Brian's pack. The pair of ravens had zipped open our top zippers on the packs and pulled out all the contents, checking for food in each plastic bag. All they found was garbage, but they had pecked and scattered the contents of those pouches all around in the short time we were gone. Zippers are no problem for them. The Tlingit first nation people in Alaska revere the raven and name one of their clans after it, and it appears in many legends and on the story and clan totems we saw in Sitka. Now we know why.

The backpacking was glorious, warm sunny days and cool starry nights, with great camping spots nestled amid the canyon walls. We were grateful for the warm weather!

We have enjoyed Utah and have visited several parks here: Arches, Canyonlands, Natural Bridges, Capitol Reef and now we are at Zion, the most visited park of all in Utah. This is a popular time of year to be here and we are with the crowds, but the weather, other than a cold snap this weekend, is cooperating. We drove through snow and 40 mph winds to get here, but now we are looking forward to a calm and sunny week. Brian and our friend Steve Benz, who is spending a few days with us, will do a 2 day backpacking trip here while I do some shorter hikes and camp in the park. We continue to be grateful for the R and R this trip is giving us and the chance to see our beautiful country. Thanks for your emails, comments and support! Love, Ruth and Brian

Greetings folks!

Our last two stops in Oregon were Oregon Cave National Monument and Crater Lake National Park. The first two pictures are from Crater Lake. At the cave we took a tour but our pictures were lousy, thus you don't see any. Also, while all caves are interesting and this one had some fascinating formations, the colors were very dull, so between the dull colors, the poor lighting and our limited camera, we didn't do so well. We had an interesting drive from the California coast to Oregon Cave National Monument. When we left the coast it was drizzly and 50 degrees and by the time we got close to the monument it was over 90 degrees and it looked like one good match could start a forest fire. Indeed, during our visit to Crater Lake we saw numerous forest fires, small ones, in the surrounding forest areas.

We spent a couple of days at Crater Lake, really two nights camping and one full day of touring and hiking. We climbed Mt. Scott, the tallest point in the park at 8900 feet to get a view of the lake. For those of you who don't know, the crater was formed when Mt. Mazama (part of the Cascades range, just like Mt. Rainier and Mt. St. Helens) blew its top 7700 years ago and all the magma underneath it drained out until the whole mountain collapsed, going from a 14000 foot peak to a crater with 7100 feet rim in elevation. It took about 2000 years for the bottom to cool enough and the cracks to seal for water to collect, and now the lake is 5 miles wide and 1/3 mile deep. There are no trails that circle the rim because it erodes so easily, so the viewpoints and summits are the best points from which to get a look at the lake. Brian is standing in front of the "Pinnacles" formations which are fumeroles (old ash vents) that have been exposed through erosion. We're learning a lot about geology, more than any of you care to know I'm sure, but it's very interesting to us, being here and all.

And so now Utah, where we were sure we could finally get away from the rain once and for all. After all, the average yearly rainfall is only 7 inches. As you may note from the last two pictures, our 5 hour hike this morning was accompanied by a steady and cold rain, more of which is predicted for tonight and tomorrow. I think all of October's allotment of rain fell while we were walking today. We finally succumbed to a hotel, just too much rain to contemplate setting up a tent in when we were already drenched and cold. But the hike at Arches National Park was great fun. I am standing in front of Partition Arch. But my favorite arch is the one that is not there. The archless picture you see is Window Arch, which fell this year. The sign is still there, but the arch is not. It's fascinating to think that these formations are coming and going endlessly as erosion does the inevitable.

We hope you are all well, as we are, and we always look forward to hearing from you.

Ruth and Brian

Dear friends and family,

We spent several days in Portland and on the Oregon coast. In Portland we stayed with Kara and David Romero. Kara is a former student of mine from WJC. It was great to catch up with their lives and we really appreciated their hospitality and tips for getting around Portland. Portland is a fabulous city which has a very urban feel in spite of being kind of small. We took public transportation to visit the rose gardens, the Japanese garden, the Portland Art Museum, Powell's book store (the biggest book store in the world they say), farmer's markets, etc. We ate with Kara and David at Habibi's, a really fine Lebanese restaurant.

We were impressed by the beauty of the Oregon coast (see picture), and were fortunate to have two really clear days to camp and get views of the ocean. It was fun to see sea stars and sea anemones on the rocks at low tide and to watch sea lions play from the cliff viewpoints above. It's hard to describe the incredible beauty of the rocks and waves.

Next we stopped at Jedediah Smith State Park which is in the Redwood National Park. My friend Mark and I stayed at Jedediah Smith for 5 days on our cross country bike trip 31 years ago. It was great fun to find our old campsite, virtually unchanged. I called Mark from the site and described to him what I saw. It matched his memory as it did mine. The Redwoods are a marvelous mystical thing. Pictures cannot communicate the environment they create. On one of the pictures above I crawled into a fallen tree and took a picture of Ruth as I looked out. We were pleased to have some beautiful weather as relaxing among the Redwoods is especially nice.

Now we headed back to Oregon and some caves and Crater Lake National Park.

More later.